Awning Retracts Unevenly: Fixing Crooked Rolling, Telescoping and One Arm Closing First

An awning that retracts unevenly is telling you that the fabric is under more tension on one side than the other. The most common causes are a roller tube and front bar that are not parallel (one bracket or one arm pitch is off), fabric that has shifted along the tube or was attached slightly out of square, and an arm that has weakened so it pushes less than its partner. The symptoms are a cone-shaped roll that is fatter at one end, fabric that creeps sideways along the tube with each cycle (telescoping), or one arm that folds and seats before the other. Most cases are fixed by re-leveling and matching pitch; a few need a technician to re-seat the fabric or replace an arm.

Three versions of the same problem

• Cone-shaped roll. When fully retracted, the fabric roll is visibly thicker at one end. On cassette awnings, the cassette may not close fully on that side.
• Telescoping. The fabric edge walks sideways along the tube a little more each cycle, so the roll looks like a stack of offset rings. In bad cases the edge rides up onto the end cap or rubs the hood.
• One arm closing first. One arm folds and the front bar reaches the hood on that side while the other side is still several inches out. The front bar arrives at an angle.

All three can appear together. Diagonal creases running from one corner across the canopy often accompany them; those are discussed in awning fabric wrinkles. If the arms fail to fold at all rather than folding unevenly, see awning arms won't close.

Why tension imbalance makes fabric walk

Fabric winding onto a tube behaves a little like a belt on a pulley. If one side of the canopy is pulled tighter, that side winds on more firmly and the fabric is drawn toward it. Every wrap that lands slightly off line makes the next wrap land further off, so a small error compounds. A seam, hem or patch that is thicker on one side has the same effect, because the roll diameter grows faster there and the fabric surface speed changes across the width.

Likely causes, most common first

1. Unequal arm pitch. One arm has been adjusted, slipped at its shoulder adjuster, or was never matched. This is by far the most frequent cause and the easiest to fix.
2. Brackets or torsion bar out of level. The mounting was off from installation, a bracket has shifted, or the wall has settled. Even 1/4 to 1/2 inch across the width matters.
3. Fabric shifted on the tube or attached out of square. The keder bead that holds the fabric in the tube's slot can creep, or a replacement canopy may have been fitted slightly skewed. Fabric cut even 1/2 inch out of square across its width can track to one side.
4. Uneven arm strength. A weakened spring or stretched elbow cable on one arm lets that side go slack, so the other arm dominates. The weak arm often closes first because it offers less resistance.
5. Uneven thickness on the roll. Patches, repair tape, a thicker side hem or a heavier seam on one side build diameter faster at that end.
6. Tube deflection. On very wide units, a tube bowing under load changes the fabric path. Usually it causes center problems, but combined with an off-center motor or bearing wear it can bias one side.

How to diagnose it

1. Retract fully and look at the roll. Note which end is thicker and whether the fabric edge is offset from the end of the tube. Photograph it so you can compare after changes.
2. Check the mounting for level. Put a level on the torsion bar, cassette or hood. If it is out, measure how far over the full width. More than about 1/4 inch is worth correcting.
3. Extend fully and measure both sides. Measure the vertical drop from the tube or cassette to the front bar at each arm. The two should match within about 1/4 to 1/2 inch.
4. Compare the arms. At full extension, are both elbows equally straight? Press down gently on the front bar near each arm: does one side give noticeably more?
5. Check fabric square. Measure from each end of the front bar to the matching end of the fabric's seam line or edge on the tube. Different measurements suggest the fabric is skewed.
6. Watch a slow retraction. With a helper on each side, watch which arm folds first and where the fabric edge goes. Stop if the edge approaches the end cap or hood.
7. Look for added thickness. Check for patches, tape or heavy seams near the fat end of the roll.

Fixes, DIY and professional

Match the arm pitch (often DIY)

If the front bar is lower on one side, adjust that arm's pitch so both sides match. With the awning extended, a helper supports the front bar near that arm, you loosen the shoulder lock bolts, turn the adjuster in small increments, and re-tighten. Re-measure both sides. Then run several full cycles and compare the roll with your photo. If drift continues in the same direction but more slowly, a further small adjustment may be needed; if it reverses, you have gone too far. Change one arm at a time and make each change small.

Re-seat or re-roll fabric (technician)

Once fabric has telescoped, correcting the cause will not pull it back by itself. A technician can unroll the fabric, slide the keder bead back into position along the tube slot, square the canopy to the front bar and re-roll it. Some technicians also correct persistent tracking by slightly building up the tube diameter at one end. Both jobs involve controlling the arms with the fabric partly unwound, which is why they are not DIY on lateral-arm awnings.

Replace or re-tension a weak arm (technician)

If one arm is clearly weaker, it needs rebuilding or replacement. On many lateral-arm designs, replacing both arms at once keeps tension balanced, since the other arm has seen the same years and cycles. See awning arm replacement.

Re-level the mounting (technician)

Brackets that are out of level need loosening and re-setting, which means supporting the whole awning. If a bracket has shifted because it is pulling from the wall, treat it as a structural repair; see awning broken bracket. Mounting surface matters here: our guide to mounting on brick, siding and stucco explains what proper anchoring looks like.

If the awning is motorized

Uneven rolling is mechanical, not a motor fault, but it affects the motor. A fat end on the roll increases the diameter, so the fabric travels further per turn and the closed limit may stop the front bar short or drive it hard into the hood. Fix the rolling first, then check limits using our guide to awning motor limit adjustment. Other motor issues are covered in motorized awning troubleshooting.

When to call a pro, and typical costs

Call a technician if matching pitch does not stop the drift, if the fabric edge is touching the end cap or hood, if one arm is weak, or if the mounting is out of level. In 2026, a service visit to re-level, adjust and re-roll commonly runs about $150 to $400 in many US areas, more for second-storey or difficult access. Arm replacement adds parts cost that varies widely by brand. See awning repair cost for detail.

Prevention

• Check that both sides have the same drop each spring, and after any windy season.
• Retract in wind; gusts that load one side can slip a pitch adjuster or bend an arm.
• Keep repairs thin: use a sewn panel rather than layers of tape on large tears.
• When re-covering, ask the fabricator to square the canopy and use balanced seams.
• Look at the roll every few weeks during the season. Catching an inch of drift early is much easier than correcting a canopy that rubs the hood.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my awning fabric roll up crooked?

Usually because one side of the canopy is under more tension than the other. The most common reason is unequal arm pitch, so the front bar sits lower on one side. Other causes include brackets out of level, fabric that has shifted or was attached out of square, a weak arm, or a thick patch on one side. Check that both sides have the same drop first.

What is telescoping on an awning?

Telescoping is when the fabric drifts sideways along the roller tube a little on each wrap, so the roll looks like a stack of offset rings. Left alone, the edge can rub the end cap or hood and fray. It is caused by uneven tension or thickness across the fabric, and once it has happened the fabric usually needs to be re-rolled by a technician.

Why does one awning arm close before the other?

One arm folding early usually means that side is under less tension, from a weaker spring, a stretched elbow cable or belt, or a lower pitch setting. It can also happen when the fabric has wound thicker on one side. Compare the drop and elbow straightness on both sides; if the arms differ in strength, have a technician rebuild or replace them.

Can I fix uneven awning retraction myself?

If the cause is unequal pitch and your manual documents the adjuster, you can usually match the two sides with a helper supporting the front bar. Re-seating fabric, re-leveling brackets and replacing arms all involve controlling spring-loaded arms or the structure, so leave those to a technician.

Can uneven rolling damage a motorized awning?

It can. A roll that is fat at one end changes how far the fabric travels per turn, so the motor may stop short of closing or drive the front bar hard into the hood. Over time that strains the motor and the arms. Fix the rolling, then check the motor limits.

Sources and further reading

• European Committee for Standardization: EN 13561, External blinds and awnings, performance requirements including safety
• Somfy: installation and limit setting guides for tubular awning motors
• Advanced Textiles Association (formerly IFAI): Specialty Fabrics Review articles on awning fabrication
• Professional Awning Manufacturers Association (PAMA): homeowner resources on awning care and service