RV Awning Accessories: What Is Worth Adding and What to Look For

The most useful RV awning accessories solve specific problems: a hanging shade screen (sun blocker) stops low morning or evening sun that slips under the awning; de-flappers and tie-down kits reduce flapping and uplift in moderate breezes; an outdoor mat keeps dirt out of the coach; and 12V LED lights make the space usable after dark. Before buying anything, check how it mounts to your awning, because manual vertical-arm awnings, power lateral-arm awnings and different brands attach accessories differently.

This guide covers generic product categories and how to evaluate them. For the awning hardware itself, see the RV awnings guide.

Accessories at a glance

Shade screens and sun blockers

An RV awning blocks overhead sun, but in the morning and late afternoon the sun is low enough to shine straight under it onto your chairs and into the coach windows. A shade screen is a panel of open-weave mesh that hangs from the outer edge of the awning down to the ground. Most attach by sliding a cord or strip into a channel on the roller tube (or the awning rail for side panels), and the bottom is staked or weighted.

What to check:

• Width: match your nominal awning size, or slightly narrower so it clears the arms.
• Drop: measure from the roller tube to the ground at your usual awning pitch. Heights vary with coach type and how you set the arms.
• Openness: tighter weaves block more sun and add privacy but catch more wind. Looser weaves preserve airflow and the view.
• Attachment: confirm that your roller tube has a free accessory channel. Some power awnings have a channel; others need a clip-on adapter.
• Side panels: for east- or west-facing sites, an end panel often blocks more useful sun than a front panel.

Solar screen fabrics for houses work on the same principle, explained in drop shades and solar screens. To estimate how far the sun reaches under an overhang at your latitude and time of day, the shade calculator helps.

De-flappers

De-flappers are clamps that pinch the fabric edge to the roller tube or arm. They stop the fabric from rippling and slapping, which is noisy and, over time, wears the fabric at the welt and stitching. They suit a steady light breeze. They do not resist uplift and are not a wind safety device.

• Look for smooth, padded or rounded jaws that will not cut the fabric.
• Confirm the clamp fits your roller tube diameter and arm profile.
• Use them in pairs, one at each end.
• Store them where you will see them before retracting. Retracting with a de-flapper attached can tear the fabric or jam the roller.

Tie-down kits

A tie-down kit usually includes straps, connectors for the roller tube or arm, and ground stakes. Spiral or auger stakes hold far better in sand and loose soil than straight stakes. Some kits include shock-absorbing springs in the strap line that let the awning move slightly in gusts instead of taking a sharp jolt.

• Manual vertical-arm awnings: you can lower the arms to ground level and stake the feet, then add straps from the roller tube ends.
• Power lateral-arm awnings: no legs, so straps run from the roller tube ends to stakes set outward and to the side.
• Hard surfaces: stakes will not work on paved sites. Weighted anchors exist but provide much less hold.

How tie-downs fit into an overall wind plan, and why they do not replace retracting, is explained in RV awning care and wind safety.

Awning and outdoor mats

An outdoor mat under the awning keeps grass, sand and mud out of the coach and defines the outdoor living area. The most common type is a woven polypropylene mat that lets water drain and light reach the ground.

• Breathability: some campgrounds restrict solid mats because they kill grass. Woven, breathable mats are more widely accepted; check the campground's rules.
• Size: a mat a little smaller than the awning footprint stays dry in rain. A 16 ft awning with 8 ft projection pairs well with a mat around 8 by 16 ft or slightly smaller.
• Anchoring: corner loops and stakes stop the mat from lifting in wind.
• Cleaning and storage: sweep or hose off and dry before rolling to prevent mildew and odor.

LED awning lights

Many newer power awnings include integrated LED lighting in the roller tube or the awning rail. For awnings without lights, aftermarket 12V LED strips are available that slide into the awning rail channel, mount to the roller tube, or attach to the sidewall below the rail. Points to consider:

• Power source: hardwiring to a fused 12V circuit with a switch inside the coach is the tidiest. Plug-in or battery-powered strips avoid wiring but need charging or an outlet.
• Weather rating: choose strips rated for outdoor wet locations, with sealed connectors.
• Brightness and color: warm white is easier on the eyes and attracts fewer insects than cool white or blue; some campgrounds ask guests to limit bright exterior lighting at night.
• Mounting location: lights on the sidewall stay put when the awning is retracted. Lights on the roller tube move with it, so cables need slack and strain relief.

What to buy first

Buy by problem, not by catalog:

1. Hot, sunny camping: a shade screen on the sunny side first, then window awnings if your rig lacks them.
2. Breezy campgrounds: de-flappers plus a tie-down kit with auger stakes.
3. Muddy or sandy sites: a breathable outdoor mat.
4. Evening use: LED lights, ideally on a switch you can reach from the door.
5. Older manual awning with worn locks: replacement factory locks first, aftermarket travel clamps second.

Accessories rarely fix a worn-out awning. If the fabric is cracked or the arms are loose, address that first using RV awning fabric replacement, or weigh an upgrade with power vs manual RV awnings.

Frequently asked questions

Do RV shade screens fit any awning?

Not automatically. Most hang from a channel on the roller tube, and the channel size and location vary by brand and model. Some power awnings need an adapter. Match the screen width to your nominal awning size and measure the drop from the roller tube to the ground at your usual pitch before ordering.

Are awning de-flappers worth it?

For moderate, steady breezes, yes. They reduce noise and prevent the fabric from snapping, which extends fabric life at the edges and stitching. They do not provide any protection against strong gusts or uplift, so they should be paired with tie-downs in breezy conditions and removed before retracting.

Can I leave the outdoor mat under my RV awning for weeks?

Use a breathable woven mat and check the campground's rules, because solid mats can kill grass and some parks restrict them. Lift and shake it every few days to let the ground breathe and to clear debris, and dry it fully before packing to prevent mildew.

Can I add LED lights to an awning without wiring?

Yes. Battery-powered and plug-in LED strips are available, and some slide into the awning rail channel. They are easier to install but need charging or an outlet. Hardwired 12V strips on a switched, fused circuit are more convenient long term and draw from the house battery.

Should I use a tie-down kit on a power awning?

You can, attaching straps to the roller tube ends and staking them outward. Remove them before retracting, because pulling against a strap can strain the motor and arms. Do not treat tie-downs as a reason to disable the motion sensor or to leave the awning out in strong wind.

Sources and further reading

• Dometic: patio awning accessories and owner's manuals
• Lippert: Solera awning accessories and installation instructions
• Carefree of Colorado: awning accessory instructions
• Battery Council International: battery care and state-of-charge guidance