RV Awning Fabric Replacement: How to Measure, Choose and Install
Quick answer
Measure an RV patio awning from the center of one arm to the center of the other, round to the nearest foot, and order fabric for that nominal size and your awning's brand, since the actual fabric is narrower. Replacement fabric costs about $150 to $500, or $300 to $900 installed, and manual awnings require careful handling of the roller tube springs.
To replace RV awning fabric, you identify the awning brand and nominal size (measured center of arm to center of arm), buy fabric made for that size, slide the old fabric out of the awning rail and roller tube, and slide the new one in. On a power awning, the job is mostly a two-person sliding exercise. On a manual awning, it also involves the torsion springs inside the roller tube, which store enough energy to cause serious injury if released carelessly. Parts typically cost $150 to $500; a shop will usually charge $300 to $900 including fabric.
This guide covers the RV-specific parts of the job. For residential awnings, see replacing awning fabric instead, since house awnings attach differently.
When to replace rather than repair
Small holes and short seam failures can be patched with awning repair tape or a sewn patch, as described in awning repair. Replace the fabric when:
- Tears exceed a few inches or run toward an edge or the welt cord.
- Vinyl is delaminating, cracking, or has gone brittle along the roller tube where it flexes.
- Mildew has stained deep into the fabric and returns after cleaning (see awning mold and mildew).
- The fabric has shrunk or stretched so much that it no longer tensions evenly, leaving a permanent water pocket.
- The welt cord (the sewn-in cord that sits in the rail channel) has torn free in more than one spot.
Before buying fabric, check the hardware. A bent roller tube, a cracked end cap or a weak arm will ruin new fabric quickly. If the roller tube is bent, a complete awning may be better value than fabric plus parts.
How to measure RV awning fabric
This is where most ordering mistakes happen, because there are three different numbers that people confuse:
| Measurement | What it is | How it is used |
|---|---|---|
| Nominal awning size | Center of one arm to center of the other, rounded to the nearest foot | The size you order by (for example, "18 ft awning") |
| Roller tube length | The aluminum tube between the end caps | Confirms the size; slightly shorter than the nominal size on most awnings |
| Actual fabric width | Edge to edge of the fabric panel | Narrower still, by an amount that depends on the brand and model |
Fabric sellers and manufacturers publish charts that convert the nominal size into the actual fabric width for each awning family. If you measure the old fabric and order that number as the "size", you will usually end up with fabric that is too narrow by the difference between the two.
- Close the awning. With the awning rolled up and the arms in travel position, measure horizontally from the center of one arm to the center of the other.
- Round to the nearest foot. A reading of 17 ft 11 in is an 18 ft awning. Readings that fall near a half-foot are ambiguous, so confirm with the label.
- Find the label. Most awnings carry a manufacturer label on an arm or near an end cap with the model and sometimes the size. Note it.
- Check the projection. Most RV patio fabrics come in standard projections (often around 8 feet). Measure from the awning rail to the roller tube with the awning fully extended if you are unsure.
- Note special features. Weatherguard or vinyl tube wrap, an LED light channel, a valance style, and whether the awning is power or manual all affect the correct fabric.
Worked example
An owner measures 15 ft 10 in between arm centers. Rounded, that is a 16 ft awning. The old fabric measures 15 ft 3 in edge to edge, a difference of 7 inches from the arm-to-arm reading. If the owner ordered "15 ft 3 in" as the awning size, a seller would interpret that as a 15 ft awning, and the fabric would be even narrower, leaving gaps at the end caps and the welt short of the rail ends. Ordering for a 16 ft awning of the correct brand gives fabric matched to the roller tube. (The 7-inch difference here is illustrative; use your manufacturer's chart for the real figure.)
Vinyl vs acrylic RV awning fabric
RV awnings use two main fabric families. The general fabric trade-offs are in acrylic vs polyester vs vinyl awning fabric; the RV-specific differences are:
| Factor | Vinyl (coated or laminated polyester) | Woven acrylic |
|---|---|---|
| Water | Waterproof; sheds rain completely | Water resistant; light mist can pass in heavy rain |
| Rolled up wet | Mildews quickly on the surface; must be dried within a day or two | Breathes and dries faster; more forgiving |
| Heat under the awning | Can trap heat; darker colors run warm | Breathes, so the shaded area often feels cooler |
| Cleaning | Wipes clean easily | Needs gentle brushing; avoid harsh scrubbing |
| Cost | Usually lower | Usually higher |
| Best for | Rainy regions, owners who want a dry patio | Hot, sunny regions, owners who sometimes roll up damp |
Rule of thumb: if you often camp in rain and want to sit dry under the awning, choose vinyl. If you camp mostly in sun and value airflow, or cannot always dry the fabric before moving on, acrylic is worth the premium. The fabric selector quiz walks through the same trade-offs.
Tools and preparation
- Two sturdy ladders and at least two people (three is easier on awnings over 16 ft).
- Drill with bits for drilling out rivets, plus a rivet gun and replacement rivets if your end caps are riveted.
- Screwdrivers and sockets for end cap and arm fasteners.
- Locking pliers (vise grips) and a strap or cord to secure the roller tube.
- Silicone spray or dry lubricant for the rail channel.
- The manufacturer's service instructions for your exact awning.
Pick a calm, dry day. Even a light breeze turns 100-plus square feet of loose fabric into a sail while it is half in the rail.
Spring tension safety on manual awnings
Warning: the roller tube of a manual RV awning contains torsion springs wound under heavy tension. If an end cap or arm is released while the spring is loaded, the tube can spin violently and the arm or tools can strike you. Many injuries from DIY fabric replacement come from this step. If you are not confident, have an RV service shop do the job.
General principles (your manufacturer's procedure takes priority):
- Never remove end cap rivets or bolts while the spring is wound unless the procedure explicitly says to. Secure the tube first, typically with locking pliers or a holding pin, so it cannot rotate.
- Count turns when releasing tension. Many procedures require you to unwind the spring a set number of turns to remove the fabric, then rewind the same number to restore tension. Write the count down.
- Keep hands and face out of the arc of anything that could spin. Hold the end cap with a tool, not bare fingers, while turning.
- Never disassemble the spring itself. Springs are replaced as an assembly, if at all.
- Power awnings generally do not have the same wound springs, but they can rotate unexpectedly if the switch is pressed. Disconnect power or pull the awning fuse before working.
Step-by-step replacement (typical sequence)
This is the general sequence for a common manual or power patio awning. Details vary by brand, so read your manual first.
- Extend and support. Open the awning partway or fully, as your manual directs, and lock the arms. On power awnings, then disconnect power.
- Secure the roller tube. Lock the tube against rotation (locking pliers on the end cap, a pin, or the manufacturer's method). On manual awnings, release spring tension per the procedure, counting turns.
- Detach the roller end. Remove the screws or drill out the rivets that hold one end cap or the arm to the roller tube, so the fabric's bottom welt can slide out of the tube channel.
- Free the top edge. At the awning rail, remove any end stop screw or crimp, then slide the top welt out of the rail. One person feeds while the other pulls.
- Slide out the old fabric. Pull the fabric along both channels until it is free. Lay it out for comparison with the new piece.
- Clean and lubricate the channels. Clear grit from the rail and tube channels with a rag, then apply silicone or dry lubricant so the new welt slides smoothly.
- Feed the new fabric. Start both welts (rail and roller tube) at the same end and slide together, with one person at each ladder keeping the fabric square. Center the fabric on the tube.
- Reassemble. Reinstall the end cap or arm, replace rivets or screws, and on manual awnings restore spring tension with the same number of turns you removed.
- Re-crimp the rail. Pinch or screw the rail ends so the fabric cannot creep out in wind.
- Test. Extend and retract several times. Check that the fabric rolls straight, the edges do not telescope, and the arms lock.
Pro tip: if the fabric rolls up crooked, it is usually off center on the tube or one welt was fed ahead of the other. Fix it now; uneven rolling wears the edges and can tear the fabric at the end cap.
DIY or shop?
DIY makes sense if you have a power awning (no wound springs), two capable helpers, ladders and an afternoon. Savings run roughly $150 to $400 in labor. A shop makes sense for manual awnings if you have never handled torsion springs, for awnings over about 18 ft, for any job that also needs a roller tube or arm, and for anyone uncomfortable working overhead on ladders. Some mobile RV technicians do fabric replacement at the campsite.
For ongoing care that extends the life of the new fabric, see RV awning care and wind safety, and for the overall system, return to the RV awnings guide.
Frequently asked questions
Is RV awning fabric universal?
No. Fabric is made for a nominal awning size and an awning family, and the welt cord sizes, pocket styles and tube wraps differ between brands such as Dometic (and older A&E), Lippert's Solera and Carefree of Colorado. Generic fabric made for a given nominal size often fits common manual awnings, but confirm compatibility for your model before ordering.
Why is my new RV awning fabric shorter than the awning?
It is supposed to be. Awnings are sold by a nominal size measured between the arm centers, and the fabric is cut narrower so it fits between the end caps and arms. The exact difference depends on the manufacturer. Fabric is only too short if you ordered by measuring the old fabric width as the awning size.
How many turns should I rewind on a manual RV awning spring?
Use the number your manufacturer specifies, or the exact number you counted when releasing tension. Too few turns and the awning will not roll up tightly or will sag; too many and it can be hard to extend or can overstress the spring. If you lost count, consult the manual or an RV shop rather than guessing.
Can I replace RV awning fabric alone?
It is strongly discouraged. Sliding a long welt through two channels needs a person at each end to keep the fabric square, and on manual awnings someone must manage the roller tube while springs are under tension. Most manufacturers' instructions assume two or more people.
How much does it cost to have RV awning fabric replaced?
Expect about $300 to $900 for typical patio awnings, including fabric. The fabric alone is usually $150 to $500, depending on size, vinyl versus acrylic, and brand. Costs climb if the roller tube, end caps or arms also need replacing, or if the awning is unusually long.
Sources and further reading
- Dometic: manual and power patio awning service and fabric replacement instructions
- Lippert: Solera awning fabric replacement instructions and support videos
- Carefree of Colorado: fabric replacement procedures and sizing information
- Advanced Textiles Association (formerly IFAI): resources on coated and woven awning fabrics
How we write our guides: figures are typical US ranges checked against manufacturer documentation, published standards and installer pricing. Read our editorial standards. Spotted an error or outdated detail? Request a correction.