RV Awning Care and Wind Safety: Protecting Your Awning at Camp and on the Road

The rules that prevent most RV awning damage are short: retract it before wind arrives, tilt it so rain drains, lock it for travel, and never leave it rolled up wet. Most fabric RV awnings should come in when sustained winds approach roughly 20 mph or when gusts are forecast, and sooner if your manufacturer says so. Tie-downs and de-flappers reduce flapping and lift in moderate breezes, but they do not make an awning safe in high wind, and automatic wind sensors only work when they have 12V power.

This guide covers habits and hardware for wind, rain, travel and cleaning. For how the awning itself is built, see the RV awnings guide.

Wind: when to retract

An RV patio awning is a large, lightly built surface attached to a thin sidewall. Wind damage typically happens in one of three ways: an upward gust lifts the roller tube and folds the arms over the roof; a sideways gust twists the arms and bends the roller tube; or repeated flapping fatigues the fabric at the welt and tears it from the rail.

Use your manufacturer's wind guidance where it is stricter. The numbers above are deliberately conservative because campground wind is local: a site in the lee of trees can be calm while a gust funnels between two rigs. For how wind ratings work on residential awnings, see awning wind ratings.

Tie-downs and de-flappers

De-flappers are clamps that grip the fabric edge to the roller tube or arm, stopping the fabric from rippling and snapping. They reduce noise and edge wear in light to moderate breezes. They do nothing to stop an upward gust from lifting the whole awning.

Tie-down kits connect the awning to the ground, usually with straps from the roller tube or arm ends to spiral or screw-in stakes. Their job is to resist uplift. Used correctly, they help in moderate wind. Points to watch:

• Angle straps outward and down, roughly in line with the arm, not straight down, so they resist both lift and sideways movement.
• Use spiral or auger-style stakes in soft ground; standard tent stakes pull out of loose soil.
• Snug, not tight. Over-tensioned straps can bend the roller tube or pull the arm out of alignment.
• On manual vertical-arm awnings, you can lower the arms to the ground and stake the feet. Most lateral-arm power awnings have no legs, so straps attach to the roller tube ends.
• Remove tie-downs before retracting. Retracting against a strap can damage a power motor or the arms.

Product categories and what to look for are in RV awning accessories.

Auto-retract wind sensors

Many power RV awnings offer a motion sensor, typically mounted on the roller tube or arm, that detects movement and signals the controller to retract the awning. Some systems let you adjust sensitivity. They are valuable, but understand the limits:

• They need power. If the battery disconnect is off, the battery is low, or the coach is on a failing converter, the awning will not retract.
• They react, not predict. A violent first gust can do damage before the awning finishes retracting, which takes a significant fraction of a minute.
• They can be disabled. Some systems let users turn the sensor off, and some deactivate it in certain modes. Know your system's status.
• Sensitivity is a trade-off. Too sensitive and the awning closes in mild breezes; too dull and it waits until damage is likely.

Treat a sensor as a backup to your own judgment. The same principle applies to residential systems, explained in awning wind and sun sensors.

Rain: pitch and the rain dump

Water is heavy, and fabric stretches. A flat or nearly flat awning in rain forms a pocket that collects more water as it sags, until arms bend or fabric tears. The fix is a "rain dump": set one end lower than the other so water runs off a corner instead of pooling in the middle.

1. Lower one end. On manual vertical-arm awnings, lower one arm a notch or more so that end sits noticeably lower than the other. Many owners aim for at least several inches of difference across the length.
2. Pitch away from the door. Drain to the end that is away from your entry step and from any hookups.
3. Check after the first heavy shower. Fabric stretches when wet; a pitch that worked dry may still form a pocket.
4. Retract in sustained heavy rain if your awning cannot be pitched (some lateral-arm power awnings have little or no adjustment). Then deal with drying later.

The same drainage principle applies to residential awnings, where about 14 degrees of pitch (roughly 3 inches of drop per foot of projection) is a common minimum: see awning projection and pitch.

Travel locks and pre-departure checks

An awning that unrolls at highway speed can tear off and become a hazard to other drivers. Manual awnings have travel locks on the arms and a roller tube lock (often a lever or cam on the end cap). Power awnings rely on the motor's brake and the arm design, and some coaches add an ignition interlock.

• Roller tube lock engaged (manual awnings).
• Arm travel locks or knobs set and tight.
• Fabric rolled tight and even, with no loose flap of fabric exposed.
• Tie-downs, de-flappers, lights and shade screens removed.
• Window awnings and their arms locked in travel position.
• Slide-out toppers rolled fully as the slides close, with no debris trapped.
• After the first few miles of the trip, walk around and check again at a stop.

Some owners add aftermarket travel lock clamps or straps on older manual awnings whose factory locks have worn. If a lock no longer holds firmly, replace it; it is an inexpensive part.

Rolling up wet and storage

Sometimes you have to leave in the rain. Rolling up wet is acceptable for a short time, but the clock starts immediately.

• Vinyl: the surfaces trapped together in the roll stay wet and grow mildew quickly, especially in warm weather. Unroll and dry within about 24 to 48 hours.
• Acrylic: breathes and dries faster, but it still mildews on dirt and organic residue if left wet. Dry it within a few days.
• Long-term storage: clean and fully dry the fabric before storing. If the rig sits for months, open the awning on a dry day every few weeks to air it and check for nests, wasps and mildew.

If mildew has already started, follow awning mold and mildew rather than reaching for bleach, which can weaken stitching and some fabric coatings.

Routine cleaning and inspection

A light cleaning two to four times a season prevents most staining. Use a soft brush, water and a mild soap or a cleaner labeled for your fabric type, then rinse thoroughly and dry before rolling. Avoid pressure washers at close range, abrasive pads, and solvents. Full techniques are in how to clean an awning.

While you are up there, check:

• Welt cord seated in the rail along its full length, with rail end crimps intact.
• Fabric edges near the roller tube for cracking or fraying.
• Arm rivets, pivot pins and brackets for looseness or cracks.
• Bottom brackets and rail screws for sealant gaps that can let water into the sidewall.
• On power awnings, wiring connections for corrosion and the switch for smooth operation.

Frequently asked questions

How much wind can an RV awning handle?

Less than most owners assume. Fabric RV awnings are designed as shade, and many manufacturers advise retracting in moderate wind. A conservative rule is to retract when sustained winds approach about 20 mph or whenever gusts are forecast. Tie-downs help in moderate breezes but do not make an awning storm-proof. Always follow your manufacturer's stated limit.

Do awning tie-downs actually work?

They help resist uplift and reduce movement in moderate wind, which can prevent damage from occasional gusts. They are not a substitute for retracting. In strong wind, a staked awning can still bend at the arms or tear the fabric, and stakes can pull out of soft ground. Use auger-style stakes and angle the straps outward.

Should I leave my RV awning out in the rain?

Light rain is fine if one end is lowered so water drains off a corner. In heavy or sustained rain, check frequently for pooling, and retract if a pocket forms or if your awning cannot be pitched. A few inches of pooled water can weigh hundreds of pounds and bend the arms.

How long can I leave an RV awning rolled up wet?

Aim to unroll and dry it within about 24 to 48 hours, especially vinyl in warm weather. Mildew grows on trapped moisture and dirt, and stains can become permanent. Acrylic dries faster but is not immune. If you must drive in the rain, open the awning to dry at your next dry stop.

Why did my power awning retract by itself?

Most likely the motion sensor detected movement above its threshold, or an ignition interlock activated when the engine started. On some systems a low-voltage condition or a controller reset can also cause unexpected behavior. Check the owner's manual for sensitivity settings and fault indicators.

Sources and further reading

• Dometic: patio awning operating instructions and wind and rain guidance
• Lippert: Solera awning operating instructions and wind sensor documentation
• Carefree of Colorado: awning care and cleaning instructions
• National Weather Service: wind advisories and severe thunderstorm safety information